Jump rings are among the smallest components in any jewellery project, but they’re responsible for some of the most critical connections in a finished piece. A pendant that falls off a chain, a clasp that separates from a bracelet, a charm that vanishes from a necklace – in the vast majority of these cases, the failure point is a jump ring that was opened incorrectly, closed imprecisely or selected in the wrong size. This guide covers everything a jewellery maker needs to know: what jump rings are, how they differ from split rings, how to use them correctly and which GRIFFIN sizes to use for each application.
Jump Rings vs Split Rings: The Difference Explained
Jump rings and split rings are frequently confused because they look similar and serve the same general purpose: connecting two components. Their construction and security characteristics are significantly different, though.
Jump ring: A single loop of wire with one cut through it. The cut creates a gap that allows the ring to be opened by rotating the two ends apart with pliers, threaded onto a component and then closed again. When properly closed, it’s strong and reliable – but that single cut creates a single potential weak point. If the ring isn’t closed flush, that gap can open under sustained stress.
Split ring: A double-coil of wire overlapping itself in the manner of a keyring. To attach a component, the wire is prised apart at the coil and the component is threaded around the full circumference until it sits between both wire layers. Split rings can’t open under normal use because there’s no single gap that can be forced apart. They’re stronger as connection points but harder to work with and not always appropriate for fine jewellery where the bulk of the coil is visible.
Soldered jump ring: A jump ring that’s been soldered shut at the cut point, creating a permanently closed loop with no gap. These are used at fixed attachment points where the ring doesn’t need to be opened – typically at the clasp end of a cord or chain where the clasp simply hooks through the ring. No tools required; once in place, the connection is permanent.
The practical rule: use open jump rings where you need to thread the ring onto a component during construction. Use split rings where long-term security under active wear is the priority. Use soldered rings where a permanently fixed, zero-movement loop is the requirement.
How to Open and Close GRIFFIN Jump Rings Correctly
Incorrect technique when opening and closing jump rings is the single most common cause of jump ring failure. The mistake almost every beginner makes is pulling the two ends of the ring apart sideways, creating a diamond or oval shape. This distorts the ring and makes it very difficult to return to a true circle when closing. The gap that results from this approach is exactly where the ring will eventually fail under stress.
The correct method uses two pairs of flat-nose pliers, one gripping each side of the cut.
Opening
• Hold one pair of pliers on each side of the ring’s cut, gripping firmly but not deforming the wire
• Rotate one end forward (away from you) and one end backward (toward you) simultaneously – this opens the gap perpendicular to the plane of the ring rather than outward
• The ring retains its round form; only the size of the gap changes
• Open only as far as needed to thread the component – excessive opening makes closing harder
Closing
• Reverse the rotation: bring both ends back toward their closed position
• The goal is for the two ends to meet flush – no gap, no overlap
• Once the ends are visually flush, apply a small amount of additional inward pressure with both pliers to seat the closure firmly
• Test by attempting to push the gap open with a fingernail: a correctly closed jump ring shouldn’t open
Tip: After closing any jump ring on a high-value piece, check it under good light at an angle. A gap that looks closed from directly above may still be slightly open when viewed from the side. Take the extra seconds to check.
Using GRIFFIN Jump Rings to Attach Clasps
Attaching a clasp to a necklace, bracelet or anklet is the most common use of jump rings in finished jewellery. The standard professional method uses one open jump ring and, where appropriate, one soldered ring working together.
For a lobster clasp on a bead cord necklace:
• Thread a soldered (closed) jump ring through the cord end or clamshell tip at one end of the necklace. This soldered ring serves as the fixed attachment point for the clasp to hook onto in daily use.
• At the other end, attach the lobster clasp body to the cord end using an open jump ring. Thread the open ring through the clasp eye and through the cord termination, then close the ring with pliers.
• The result: one end has a fixed, permanent loop; the other has the clasp body. The clasp hooks onto the fixed ring to close, and unclips from it to open.
For a spring ring or lobster clasp on a chain:
• Open a jump ring in the correct size for the clasp eye. Thread it through the end link of the chain and through the clasp eye simultaneously.
• Close the jump ring flush. Check the closure carefully – this is the single most-tested connection point in the piece.
• At the other end of the chain, attach a soldered jump ring or a short length of extension chain as the fixed connection point.
Tip: Always match the jump ring metal to the clasp and finding metals. A silver jump ring with a gold-plated clasp reads as an error, not a design choice, and in professional work it signals careless specification.
Using GRIFFIN Jump Rings for Chain Extenders
Chain extenders allow a necklace or bracelet to be worn at multiple lengths. The jump ring plays a critical role at two points in an extender: at the junction between the main chain and the extender chain, and at the decorative end of the extender itself.
Standard construction for a chain extender:
• At the end of the main chain, attach a 3cm to 5cm length of fine chain using an open jump ring. This extension chain lets the wearer hook the clasp at different points.
• At the far end of the extension chain, attach a small charm, drop bead or soldered jump ring as the visual termination point. This prevents the clasp from falling off the end of the extension and provides a neat finish.
• The clasp hooks onto any link of the extension chain rather than specifically onto a ring, giving a genuinely adjustable range rather than just two or three fixed positions.
For the junction ring between the main chain and the extension chain, use a 4.0mm or 4.5mm open jump ring depending on the chain link size. For the terminal ring or charm attachment at the end of the extender, a 3.0mm or 3.7mm ring keeps the proportion appropriate for most fine jewellery chain weights.
GRIFFIN 925 Sterling Silver Jump Rings: Sizes and Uses
GRIFFIN Open Jump Rings are available in 925 Sterling Silver and 24K Gold Plated, in six sizes that cover every standard jewellery application. Each size specifies both the outer ring diameter and the wire gauge, which together determine the ring’s strength, visual scale and compatibility with different clasp eye sizes.
| Diameter | Wire | Material | Best Use |
| 3.0mm | 0.7mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | Fine chain, small pendant bail, lightweight connections |
| 3.7mm | 0.8mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | Standard light chain, medium pendants |
| 4.0mm | 0.8mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | General purpose – most common size across all applications |
| 4.5mm | 0.9mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | Lobster clasp attachment on standard necklaces and bracelets |
| 5.0mm | 1.0mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | Larger lobster clasps, heavy pendants, multi-component links |
| 5.9mm | 1.2mm | 925 Sterling Silver, 24K Gold Plated | Heavy clasps, thick cord ends, statement-scale connections |
For most necklace and bracelet work, the 4.0mm and 4.5mm sizes cover the majority of applications. The 3.0mm ring is right when working with very fine chain or small pendant bails where a larger ring would look disproportionate. The 5.9mm ring is rarely needed for standard jewellery, but it’s the correct choice when connecting GRIFFIN’s larger lobster clasps (13mm and 16mm) or finishing thick leather or cord ends where the ring must accommodate significant material bulk.
Tip: When ordering GRIFFIN jump rings for a new project, always buy at least 20% more than your calculated requirement. Jump rings that are opened and closed repeatedly during fitting or adjustment become work-hardened and may need to be discarded. Having spares avoids stalling a project mid-assembly.






