When Michael and Sophia — two cheerful Italian-Americans from New Jersey whose nonno grew up in San Frediano — stepped off their cruise ship in Civitavecchia, they had a single mission: taste an authentic panino al lampredotto at the legendary Tripperia Pollini in Florence. I’m Edward Barreda of Rome City Transfers, they called me and asked, “Can you drive us all the way to Florence just for a sandwich?” Challenge accepted. A few minutes later we were gliding north in a Mercedes V-Class, espressos in hand, leaving the port behind.
The Road North: Stories, Cypress Trees and One Growing Appetite
The three-hour ride passed in a flash. We traced the Tyrrhenian coast, then cut east through vine-studded hills, trading family stories for Tuscan trivia. Michael pulled out a faded photo of his grandfather in a 1940s Fiorentina football scarf; Sophia had written lampredotto on the back like a mantra. By the time Florence’s terracotta skyline appeared, the aroma of simmered tripe seemed to hang in the air — or maybe that was our imagination working overtime.
First Bite at Tripperia Pollini
Pollini’s tiny beige cart in Piazza Sant’Ambrogio was already surrounded by locals on their lunch break. The vendor lifted a steaming bundle of abomasum (the cow’s fourth stomach) from a copper pot, chopped it to order, tucked it into a crusty semelle roll, splashed the top half of the bread in the broth (“bagnato”) and spooned on bright-green salsa verde plus a dot of chili oil. One bite and Michael’s eyes watered — not from spice, but from pure nostalgia.
“It’s like a hug from Nonno in sandwich form,” he said, waving the soggy, perfect roll.
Lampredotto 101 – Why This Humble Cut Became Florence’s Street-Food Icon
| What | Why it matters |
| Cut | Abomasum – softer and darker than the other stomachs, slow-cooked until fork-tender. |
| Origins | Born of cucina povera in the 15th century, when poor workers made the most of the animal after the nobility claimed the prime cuts. |
| Name | “Lampredotto” references the medieval delicacy lampreda (lamprey eel); the cooked tripe’s mottled brown-and-cream pattern reminded Florentines of the fish’s skin. |
| Broth | Water, tomato concentrate, onion, celery, carrot, parsley and bay leaf create the reddish stock that flavors both meat and bread. |
| Salsa Verde | Parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers, a touch of vinegar-soaked bread and Tuscan olive oil — every trippaio guards a slightly different recipe. |
Five Tried-and-True Spots for Lampredotto Lovers
- Tripperia Pollini – Piazza Sant’Ambrogio. Cult status for melting-soft meat and extra-fiery chili sauce. Expect a queue but service that moves.
- Il Trippaio del Porcellino – Piazza del Mercato Nuovo. Four generations at the “King of Lampredotto” stand beside the famous bronze boar.
- Da Nerbone – Inside Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo. Pair your sandwich with a glass of rough Chianti and watch the market buzz.
- L’Antico Trippaio – Piazza de’ Cimatori. Perfect mid-shopping stop; prices still hover around €4.
- Trippaio di San Frediano – Piazza de’ Nerli. Locals’ favorite on the “other” side of the Arno, ideal for an evening snack with craft beer.
Pro tip: order “Bagnato e piccante, per favore” — they’ll dip the bread and add a swipe of hot sauce.
Fun Facts to Impress Your Travel Mates
- Florence still counts about a dozen licensed trippai in the historic center, each with its own broth secret.
- Traditionalists sip young Chianti with the sandwich, but many stands now offer craft beers on tap.
- There’s even a free iPhone app, iLampredotto, that geolocates every cart in town. (Yes, really.)
Getting There in Comfort – Rome City Transfers
Whether you’re sailing into Civitavecchia, landing at Fiumicino (FCO) or staying in central Rome, our door-to-door service whisks you to Florence (or anywhere in Tuscany) in climate-controlled comfort, with English-speaking drivers and fixed, upfront rates. We’ll happily build in photo stops in Chianti or designer-outlet detours — and, of course, time for a second round of lampredotto before the drive back.
The Last Crumb
Michael and Sophia slept most of the return journey, clutching paper napkins still perfumed with broth. For them, that sandwich wasn’t just street food; it was a bite of family history. And for me, it was another reminder that great stories start the moment someone says, “It’s only a quick trip for a panino…”
Thinking of your own Tuscan taste-bud adventure? Send me a message on Rome City Transfers.
